Laying Down Some Dirty Tracks (and other weathering techniques)

Hello,

As promised, we're going to look at the final steps to completion on the Vickers Light Tank Mk VIb, after I managed to avoid buying into Dystopian Wars for at least another pay day.  These stages are mainly related to weathering and markings.

By this stage I've already incorporated some weathering (the streaking of the paint) and detail work (the Vision Blocks and Search Light), so that leaves:

• Tracks (rust and dirt) and Guns
• Exhaust (red oxide finish and soot marks)
• Unit markings
• Hull Dirt

Firstly, the tracks and muzzle of the guns are blacked out (actually done at the same time as marking out the vision blocks and search light in black).  This gives a good base for the following stages.

Next, I mixed Vallejo 'German Grey' and 'Gunmetal' in a 50:50 ratio and covered the muzzle, just leaving a small line of black where it joined the gun cowling.  I then painted over this in 'Gunmetal' before painting the very edge in 'Oily Steel' for a highlight.

The Tracks were dry brushed in 'Gunmetal' and washed in 'Black Shade'.   This gets them to their natural state as it were.

Next, I covered the exhaust in 'Flat Brown' to give a base for the 'red oxide' finished exhaust that period tanks seem to have.

Does Kwik Fit have an Exhaust for a 1939 model Vickers VI?

I then applied a highlight of 'Red Leather'  On the most recent batch of Vickers (the ones I'm currently working on) I actually applied some mottles of 'Red Leather' to give a more 'uneven weathering' look to the exhaust.  

I also applied a wash of 'Red Leather' to the tracks and suspension to give the impression of localised surface rust on areas likely to be soaked by river fording and use on wet ground. 

It's a bit rusty.  Time for some Hammerite!

I also experimented with using the watered down 'Red Leather' to give the impression of rust streaks.  This appeared to give the right look but I decided to not apply it to the BEF tanks.  They just didn't survive long enough to get rusty!  One to save for a Late war Sherman army (especially the run down Shermans 3RTR received in the rush to reinforce the Ardennes in the Battle of the Bulge).

Rumours that the dust streaks are experimentation for Dystopian Wars are vastly exaggerated...

Finally I stippled on some black paint to give a soot smudge effect.  I found the best way to do this was in two stages.  The first was to stipple on wet black paint using an old dry brush.  I then semi-dry brushed on black paint to get the main smudge.  I think it gives a nice impression of the soot that would build up near the exhaust over time.

It looks good now.  But the RSM is going to make them clean it off with toothbrushes later...

I needed to get the markings on next so that the dirt wash would go over the top.  It's important to get the narrative of the weathering correct.  Having markings over weather sticks out like a saw thumb (unless its a deliberate re-marking late in a vehicles life).  Other effects need some thought given to circumstances.  Similarly the dirt should go over rust as the rust is even more in grained than this mornings run through a stream but dust over or under an oil stain may be equally applicable.

For reference Armoured Acorn lists the markings for various tanks used in 1940 France and 3RTR is well represented on all marks, including The Vickers IVB.

As with all my projects, I did markings free hand rather than use Transfers.  Transfers and me never seem to get on well.  I use a GW Standard Brush (fat enough to carry paint but a fine point to give a decent line) and the paint thinned down slightly more than normal.  The markings are as follows:
1.  Bridge rating - 'Deep Yellow' circle with 'Black' No. 6 in centre.  Located only on front hull.
2.  Arm of Service Marking - Green square (50:50 mix of 'Luftwaffe Cam. Green' and 'Yellow Green') with 'White' No.9 in centre.  This is on the centre of the front hull and the rear board.
3.  1st Armoured Division symbol - A White Rhino within a white outline oval.  I painted an oval first and then two overlapping teardrops to give a rough rhino body shape).  Looks okay!  This is only on the front hull.
4.  Squadron Marking - A Yellow Triangle for 'A' Squadron.  This is on each side of the turret with a small marking on the turret front unfortuantely unable to fit due to the way the Search Light is modelled not leaving enough space.

With the markings applied I watered some 'US Field Drab' down to a wash and applied it liberally over the lover half of the tanks and carefully along areas where dirty was likely to gather as water evaporated off (the front hull strakes, the rear bin, around hatches - no doubt carried by dirty boots.

This completed the Vickers Light Tanks.  Here are some shots of the finished tanks.

Vickers IVB of A Sqdn 3RTR, 1st Armd Div

Troop Commander - Front (yes, I bodged the '6' up on his tank to the extent it looks like a sigma!)

Left Side of Troop Commander

Backside (huh huh) of Troop Commander

Top Surface

The Troop Commander!  Like I said, we'll look at painting the commander and other infantry in the future

So there you go!  First Troop done, seven more to go.  Plus Dingo.  Plus Infantry.

Whimper...

G3 Khaki Green - Or "WTF? Are we camouflaging this for a Disco?"

Hello

There is always one peril with historical wargaming.  Having someone in the past do something stupid with no regard for how it will affect generations of players later!  Sadly, playing Brits in WWII one tends to run into them far too often but it does build character.

BEF Tank camo, specifically for the Armoured Divisions, is one of these areas.  Seriously, luminous green as a tank camo?  I'm not sure if this is Battlefront making a bad call, there are a few colour charts that agree with the colour choice, but what the hell is going on with Cruiser Green?  Did someone think there was rain forests in the Belgium?  Did they let the raver mix the paint and he dropped some glow sticks in?  What was going on?  sadly this is the same military that came up with the wonderful idea of not bothering with a HE round  for the main gun...

Research

Needless to say, I was going to stray a little away from reality here and it doesn't seem to be too uncommon.  Looking around I found a few examples that don't seem to agree with the colours in 'Blitzkrieg'.  This model of a 3RTR A13 on Missing Lynx shows something that looks closer to Russian Uniform and the Bovington Tanks (I found some photos here and here) concur.  It's always dangerous relaying on museum tanks, often they are repainted in.. interesting interpretations of the original colours but it was a straw I could grab onto!
Interestingly Phil Yates, one of the BF rules monkey's (if not *the* head rule monkey) also went with Russian Uniform.  He put his thoughts in two articles (here and here) and also in the forum and certainly guided me in my choices when it came to the paint job.

Execution

Now, I had a 'brainwave' when it came to painting up the BEF quickly.  Quoting myself

"I'm opting for base coating with US Armour spray coat (basically Brown Violet) then...masking and spraying over with British Armour spray to get the same effect."

Yeah...  That didn't work out too well.  The issue was the mask.  I sprayed the model using Army Painter/Battlefront "US Armour" and then used the liquid mask that comes in the Vallejo/Battlefront utility set.  Firstly, this stuff destroys brushes!  It dries on the brush whilst your applying the mask, even washing the brush in-between areas didn't help.  You also can't over mask an area that is already masked as it tends to lift.

Brown Violet - Not particularly violet but versatile none the less!

"Mask!"  Not Mobile Armoured Strike Kommand

I eventually got the model masked off, cheating by using blue-tac to hide the tracks so that the lower hull would be in the original colour, and decided that I would proceed with just one Vickers tank until I knew if it worked.  That was probably the only good call of the day!  I sprayed the "British Armour" spray and left it dry overnight.

Bright green - not luminous green!

Removing the mask was a complete bitch.  Trying to lift the mask off with tweezers scratched the Brown Violet paint below and I really had to dig it out, using a cocktail stick, from the various nooks and crannies.  I easily spent 30 minutes to an hour trying to do this and still had masking present!

Note scratches and little scraps of liquid mask gripping for dear life around smoke dispenser

More scraps stuck around searchlight and gun mantle.  Scratches near exhaust.

I eventually admitted defeat and put the model aside for stripping (I'll cover that process at a later date).  I then decided to paint it by hand instead.

Execution Take II!

So, three more Vickers undercoated in 'US Armour'.  This time I decided to highlight the Olive Drab before laying down the lighter green as I was worried about trying to drubrush the camo without straying onto the lighter colour.
So, I grabbed a large flat drubrush and did a heavy drybrush of Vallejo 'Brown Violet' (the paint is slightly lighter than the spray) followed by a lighter drybrush of Vallejo 'Khaki'.

That done, I then painted on Vallejo 'Russian Uniform in broad irregular strips aiming to cover 2/3rds of the model and carrying the pattern over the turret aligned forward.  I left the paint off the lowest surface of the front and rear plates, on the gun cowls and below the track guards.  These are areas that Phil Yate's research suggested would be 'skipped' by the crews when they repainted as they were a bugger to paint.  Makes sense.

Makes you wonder why I bothered painting the Olive Drab seeming as I covered most of it!

I then mixed in 'Tan Yellow' to provide a light, bright highlight.  I used a smaller flat drybrush and carefully applied it to the Russian Uniform areas, trying to avoid the Brown Violet patches.

Perhaps a bit pale.  May try adding some Yellow Green next time.

Next, I did my normal wash stage.  I made a 50:50 mix of Vallejo 'Black' and 'Brown' washes then watered down.  I used a GW Standard Brush (the orange tipped one) to carefully apply the wash to panel edges, around detail and the rivets.

The Troop after washing

That gets the basic armour done. I applied some weathering at this stage in the form of rain and UV lines but I'll cover this next week.

I marked the vision blocks and lights out in black.  The vision blocks had Luftwaffe Uniform applied and a tiny dot of white in the corner.  A very simple 'glass reflecting sky' look.  The search lights were picked out by painting a hemisphere of 'Gunmetal' on the lower half of the black disc.

"I can clearly see now/the vision slot is painted"

Then an 'Oily Steel' arc on the 'Gunmetal'

Oily Steel sounds like it should be a porn name.

Then a thin line and a dot of white to complete.

"and lo.  The Commander said, let there be light"

You'll note that I've ignored the Commander.  I tried a different technique on him and we'll revisit this on a later blog.

We'll leave it there for this week.  Next week I'll pick up on tracks, markings and weathering to completion.

Finally, a quick plug for the chaps over at "All Along the Watchtower" podcast who have launched a forum.  It's quite a diverse group with forum members from outside of Brighton and is also home to forum exclusive content.  Give it a try!

Enjoy.

The (AH Mk.1) Lynx Effect

Getting bored of 6mm Infantry and Armour yet?  Yes.  Frankly, I am too.  So I decided to put the last batch of Infantry to one side for the moment and go rotary wing.

I picked up a pair of Heroic and Ros Lynx AH Mk.1 helicopters (UKMA402).  Until the introduction of the rather fearsome Apache gunship in UK service, the Lynx was the main attack helicopter of the Army Air Corps. Whilst nowhere near as well armed or armored as the WAH-64 in use today, the Lynx combined eight TOW anti-tank missiles to a relatively nimble and fast airframe that would be used to help (a little) even the odds in the event of a Russian armored column making a dash for the Channel ports.

Preparation

I'll be writing a detailed review H&R Lynx for Mighty Miniatures soon, but suffice to say that they are nice models for the money.  The only real issue was the rather nasty flash.

Up to the normal high standards of post 60's UK Aerospace build quality!

That took a chunk of time to clear but soon I had both Lynx built up.  Unlike the fixed wing aircraft, the H&R helicopters are multi-part models and come with external stores as appropriate.  In this case, the Lynx came with two quad TOW launchers each.

A snip at an SDR friendly £1.50

I used a 1mm drill bit fitted to the Dremel to drill a relatively deep hole in the base of the fuselage at what I figured was about the centre of gravity of the model.

If at first you don't succeed in finding the CoG...  You'll bend the rotors.

I then unfolded a pair of NATO standard paper clips and superglued them in, sticking the remaining free end into a couple wooden blocks.  These will act as a handy stand for undercoating and painting so that the flying bases remain paint free.

Flying High!

Basecoating and Research

Research so late on in the section?  normally its the first section?  Yeah...that bit me in the ass.  I made my first mistake of the project and sprayed the models Army Painter 'Uniform Grey'.   Being used to modern Lynx's in their green and grey scheme I made a rather foolish assumption that they had always been painted that color.  Turns out they weren't, as I quickly found out whilst trying to work out what shade the green should be!  Apparently, back in the eighties until some point in the early nineties, British army helicopters were painted green and black, like the tanks.  Thankfully I found some good period photos (yay for aircraft spotters) scattered around the net.  These two in particular proved handy.  Photo 1 / Photo 2.  The photos gave a good view of markings and the TOW launchers and they would prove useful later.

So, a quick spray of Army Painter/Battlefront's 'British Armour' followed, making the Lynx probably some of my best primed models in the CWC army!

Needless to say, I'm getting through a bit of 'British Armour' green at the moment!

Now, British Armour isn't quite right for the shade.  The photos made it look less brown/green than that shade and darker to boot.  I had a bit of a play around with the shades of green I have and Vallejo 'Reflective Green' seems the closest shade without mixing.  That's a bit of a pisser as 'Reflective Green' is a horrid colour to work with.  Anyone who uses Vallejo paints is used to spending a minute shaking the paint to unleash the magic but no amount of shaking ever seems to get Reflective Green from being a runny, poorly mixed, mess.  In the end I opted for shaking the pot, rubbing the pot in my palms (seriously, this is necceary!) and still had to go with  three thin coats when one would normally suffice.  I'm still not entirely sure the end result was what I had in mind or worth the effort!

Not really that reflective

Wanting to preserve the shade of green as much as possible I decided to forgo the 50:50 mix of Vallejo 'Brown' and 'Black' shades.  Instead I used thinned down 'Black' shade on its own, applied all over the model.  Once dry, I gave the whole model a heavy drybrush (well, given the runny nature of the paint it was more of a wet brush) of 'Reflective Green' and then a lighter drybrush of a 50:50 mix of 'Reflective Green' and 'Yellow Green'.

Shaded and Highlighted

Camouflage

As mentioned, the Lynx were painted in a two tone green and black camo.  I painted the black camo much like I had with the tanks, using a 'German Grey'/'Black' mix in a 25:75 ratio to give a 'charcoal' colour that seemed about right for a partly sun faded paint.  I also painted the rotors this shade too.

See!  The model does have a right hand side!

This was highlighted in neat 'German Grey' which, looking at it now, was probably too light a highlight.  Maybe a 59:50 Grey/Black may have worked better.  Ah well.  I applied a little 'Black' shade into the crevices to add some shading and moved on to the detail stage.

Maybe too sun faded

Fine Detail

Well, now the, IMHO, fun bit of the project.  Going to town with fine detail.
Looking at the photos there were a few things I wanted to make sure the model captured:

• Rotor tip markings
• Engine and blade safety markings
• Roundels and service markings *i.e. "ARMY")
• A decent glazing effect on the canopy and TOW sight.

The first markings I did were the yellow/black markings near the engine cowling.  I'm not sure if these are marking covers or 'step' regions but they are pretty prominent.  This picture of the Blue Eagle's display team Lynx doing a loop shows them off well.  They are just behind the top Canopy glaze.

They were relatively simple to paint.  First I painted a 'Deep Yellow' box in each location. I also added a few squiggly lines of 'faux text' to the cabin door and TOW launchers in place of yellow stenciled text that can be seen on the photos.

Before: A bit of colour on the model!

I then filled in the box with 'Black', leaving the yellow at the edges. I also used the black paint to fill in the windows (as well as paint a small rectangle for the missing lower hull windows).  I then thinned the black down to a consistency suitable for very fine detail and  carefully painted the words "ARMY" and the registration "X1111" (I used the same number on both.  Its just to give the impression of writing without having to do squared off stencil numbers at this scale.)

After: Colour eradicated to be replaced by grim dark blackness

Next, I used 'Luftwaffe Uniform WWII' as a fairly neutral blue'grey to add some colour to the glazing.  I left an irregular black strip at the bottom of each window (including the pane for the TOW sight, the thing sticking out on the left of the canopy roof and the painted on lower hull window).  This gives the impression of a dark 'twilight/dawn' ground being reflected back.  You'll note that I tried painting the incorrect two windows on the cabin door as a single large window.

'Luftwaffe Uniform' - Not just for 'Herman Goering' division!

'Next, to give the impression of reflected light, I thinned down some 'White' paint and painted on diagonal lines to the windows.  I also used the 'White' paint to start the Tail Rotor markings and the warning sign just below them and the main rotor as well as edge out the painted on Lower hull windows (what would actually be the interior of the cockpit showing through)
I then painted a small circle of Dark Blue on each side of the hull.

I then used 'Red' paint to add the small red circle to the roundel, a small red rectangle to the Tail boon warning marking, the tips of the tail rotor and a small warning marking just below the engine exhaust.

All but finished!

I used 'Gunmetal Grey' to paint on the intake dust shield and the exhaust manifold (both missing from the model).
Finally I applied a thin wash of 'US Field Drab' to the base of the skids and 'US Dark Green' to pick out the TOW missile tubes within the lighter green launcher..  I did ponder the idea of adding some exhaust marks to the hull but couldn't find any evidence to support that this occurred so there wasn't much weathering applied compared to the armour!
This leaves the Lynx looking like this.

All that's left is to apply some varnish and clip off the paper clip handle, leaving enough to stick into the flying base.

Update - Had a massive failure of the varnish stage.  I think I may have rushed putting the second coat on, or maybe it was too humid, but the end result is that the Lynx have gone from the look above to this:

:(

So ends a bad week really.  The Lynx are still usable but its really knocked the paint job down.